Restaurant Appraisals: Quince Restaurant in Toronto
The Eye Magazine rated this place as exceptional, but the Toronto Life used to give it mixed reviews, before finally calling it one of Toronto’s Best New Restaurants in 2007. So Quince is one of the must-try places, being a Mediterranean-inspired bistro where prices are reasonable and meals are fresh and innovative. Formerly of the acclaimed Stork on the Roof, the husband and wife team of Jennifer Gittins and Michael van den Winkel reappeared in fall of 2006 with this new midtown digs, only a couple blocks south of the busy intersection at Yonge and Eglinton.
Enclosed by a pretty patio graced with teak furniture and plenty of cushions in bright, primary colours, Quince is directly across the street from the abandoned hulk that was once Cheaters, an infamous nudie bar. Two doors down, next to the popular restaurant Coquine, a neon sign proclaims “Adult Video & Novelties”, a bit of a shocker in a neighbourhood touted for its blossoming business district and family-friendly parks. But if you can remember, at least in the last 25 years, this part of Yonge Street between Eglinton and Davisville has always offered a wide selection of shops. Clothing stores, bead and paper shops, home decor, but also adult venues - all this can be found around here.
We are warmly greeted at Quince’s door by the hostess, who offers us a place near the bar on low, cushioned banquettes. Pleading excessive height, we’re offered a selection of tables, which is a pleasant surprise for a Saturday night in this busy neighbourhood. “What’s downstairs?” I ask. We get a reply from our hostess: “Oh, that’s our private dining room.” It is available for lunches and dinners and it has its own bar and lounge, all nicely decorated (though the tile floor will tell you it’s placed in the basement). This room can host corporate or private groups of diners up to 40 people or cocktail receptions of up to 70 people. You can get a recommended menu along with matching wines, showing that the staff takes care of all the details.
Just a moment after we choose our table, a waiter arrives with a short list of specials. I mean a brief list of specials consisting of a long explanation of ingredients and preparation methods, and how the meals go together. He apparently knows his stuff, not referring to his notebook as he pauses to tell us what is a garnish vs. what is offered on the side. Personable, friendly and efficient - that is how I would characterize him. While I can’t decide whether I should order a whole sea bream (“Most people eat a side with it, it’s just the fish,” our waiter cautions apologetically), we can look around a bit. Enhanced by clever lighting that adds lovely warmth to the airy dining room, the space is deceptively large while keeping a pleasant level of intimacy. I also appreciate the comfortable volume level - although almost all the tables around us are full, we can still talk easily and listen to the background music - probably D’Angelo and Stevie Wonder. The loft-style exposed brick walls are decorated with modern art in earthy shades, adding balance to the exposed pipes painted in chocolate brown, probably not to look too sterile. Voyeurs will appreciate the semi-open kitchen, offering a glimpse of the wood-fired oven behind the bar. If you are interested to read the rest of our review, see the full Quince restaurant review.
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